— Ведь это Туве Янссон придумала снег? — спросил журналист из Филиппин, который совсем как Муми-тролль в «Волшебной Зиме», никогда не видел снега. В музее муми-троллей в Тампере он всерьёз решил, что идея покрыть Мумидол холодной белой ватой была просто литературной находкой Туве Янссон.
Его вопрос, поначалу кажется наивным и даже абсурдным, любому жителю северных краёв очевидно, что снег отнюдь не выдумка Туве, а совершенно обыденная часть нашей зимней жизни. Но если задуматься, вдруг и всё остальное, описанное в книгах о муми-троллях, не придумано? Может, Туве Янссон просто описала и зарисовала то, что было ей доподлинно знакомо?
Мир муми-троллей стал родным для миллионов читателей всех возрастов. И дети, и взрослые узнают себя в героях книжек Туве Янссон, тянутся к той доброй простоте, в которой живёт муми-семейство, находят в Мумидоле надежное убежище ото всех несчастий, как это делала и сама Туве в тяжелые военные годы.
Родители, перечитывая, знакомые с детства книги, удивляются их своевременности и глубине, а настоящие фанаты пускаются с детьми в приключение за пределы книжки, чтобы, дружно взявшись за руки, воочию убедиться, что не такой уж это и придуманный мир.
С таким настроем здорово всей семьёй отправиться в Тампере! Всего в полутора часах на электричке от Хельсинки стоит полусказочный город, готовый удивлять, радовать и развлекать всю семью.
Впервые оказавшись в музее муми-троллей, довольно сложно сохранить уверенность в том, что тут точно сказочно-книжное, а что реальное. Обложки любимых книг открываются словно двери, а за ними сотни крошечных оригинальных иллюстраций, инсталляции, анимация, шорохи и скрипы.
Вот Волшебная Шляпа, заглянув в которую, можно обнаружить у себя уши Сниффа, рожки или цветы, растущие из головы. Вот хвост огромной Кометы, сверкающий тысячами кристаллов. А здесь фрагменты аудиокниг — среди языков есть русский, но если выбрать шведский, вам почитает сама Туве Янссон.
Можно бесконечно вглядываться в фигурки, стульчики и черепицу крыш, представляя, как долгими вечерами на каменном острове Кловхару Туве с Тууликке Пиетиля мастерили трёхмерные инсталляции — сценки из книжек, проработанные до мельчайших деталей. Главная из них — пятиэтажный Муми-дом высотой два с половиной метра, наполненный жизнью от банок с вареньем из подвала и до чердака в паутине.
То тут, то там кто-то пошевелится: из коробки выглядывает малышка Мю, опасливо пробегают Тофсла и Вифсла, хатиффнаты, едва дотронешься, бьются током, а рядом по лестнице спускается девочка-невидимка.
Кажется, на то он и музей, чтобы погружать в сказочную атмосферу, но вот сумрак музея остался позади, а город Тампере продолжает свою игру. В ресторанном меню — всамделишный заботливый обед от Муми-мамы. Да и кто, если не Муми-мама, разбила огородик прямо на крыше Конгресс-холла? Там травы, зелень для салатов и помидорки в теплице, а рядом пара пчелиных ульев, которые выглядят как игрушечные, но взаправду приносят по 100 килограммов мёда за лето.
Стоит немного прогуляться от центра города, как попадёшь на безлюдный берег озера или в живописный лес на холмах. Со смотровой башни Пююникки видно весь Тампере и оба озера, окружающих город, а внизу уже 60 лет каждый день пекут пончики с кардамоном по секретному семейному рецепту. Как нельзя кстати для лесной прогулки!
Город Тампере был построен между двух озёр, которые соединяет речка Таммеркоски. Её быстрые воды использовались для получения электроэнергии, она буквально течёт сквозь здания заводов. Впрочем, в центре города давно ничего не производят, а за строгими кирпичными стенами теперь офисы, библиотеки и музеи. Иногда по 10 музеев под одной крышей, как в Ваприикки. На трёх этажах можно найти всё, что угодно: от кукол до самолётов, от гигантских аметистов до самых странных почтовых открыток, от чучел лосей до симулятора-лесовоза.
А в прошлом году Тампере объявили мировой столицей саун. Они буквально повсюду. Любителям погреться вовсе необязательно целенаправленно собираться, чтобы пойти в сауну, в Тампере запросто можно встретить сауну-бочку прямо посреди семейного фестиваля, бар с сауной и красивым видом на город или ресторан-сауну, где в ведёрках уже подготовлено всё необходимое для спонтанных банщиков.
Отовсюду в Тампере видно смотровую башню Нясиннеула — самое высокое сооружение в Финляндии. И стоит она прямо в парке развлечений Сяркяниеми, который мог бы славиться своими впечатлящими экстремальными аттракционами, но это было бы не по-тамперски! То ли дело, когда на территории парка развлечений можно прокатиться по мутным бурным порогам и промокнуть под водопадом, попасть на деревенскую ферму из книжек самого известного финского писателя Маури Куннаса, потом вдруг в планетарий, да ещё и заглянуть в музей современного искусства!
Такое разнообразие, что под вечер кружится голова. В какой мы книжке? В каком городе? Куда делся Муми-тролль? А, вот он, блестит ушами в парке Сорсапуисто! Все границы между взрослым и детским, природным и городским, заводским и культурным, сказочным и реальным размыты, а значит каждому путешественнику точно найдётся приключение по душе!
Приехал бы филиппинский журналист зимой, малышка Мю могла бы одолжить ему серебряный поднос, ведь снежными горками и катками Тампере тоже знаменит.
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