«Мы будем немножко удивлять и ломать стереотипы о Карелии» — пообещала мне организатор пресс-тура из Петрозаводска. И я поняла: надо ехать!
Когда где-то ломаются, развенчиваются и трещат по швам стереотипы, я это очень люблю, ведь по сути всё «может быть по-другому» именно об этом. Сразу задумалась, а есть ли у меня стереотипы о Карелии?
Я бывала в Карелии и в походах, и в поездках с родителями, и на машине, и на поезде. Но всегда летом! И что меня всегда притягивало и восхищало, так это камни, горы, закатное солнце на стволах сосен, иван-чай, цветистые поля, озёра, Калевала, вот это всё.
Поехать в Карелию зимой мне никогда не приходило в голову. А очень зря, как оказалось!
Петрозаводск, от которого можно даже далеко не уезжать, чтобы посмотреть кучу всего интересного, находится всего в 400 километрах от Питера. При этом он, как и вся Карелия, поражает своей самобытностью, близостью к природе и этническим корням. И концентрация любителей парусного спорта, лыж и подлёдной рыбалки какая-то неправдоподобная!
Март, говорят, прекрасное время для зимнего спорта и отдыха в Карелии, снежно и солнечно. И это правда! Мы приехали на три полных дня, температура была от −18 до −24. Но холода не чувствовалось, хотя мы были на свежем воздухе почти целыми днями!
До этой поездки мне бы в голову не пришло, что можно взять Ташу или друзей и поехать румянить щёки, дышать морозным воздухом и отогреваться какао в Карелию! А теперь уже внесла в календарь примерный план поездки на следующую зиму.
Хотите карельских приключений? В этом посте я делюсь всеми ссылками и рассказами о том, каким тёплым и весёлым может быть зимний отдых!
Гостиница ПитерИнн
Ещё 10 лет назад я была готова спать в палатке на снегу, ночевать у знакомых или в хостеле, гостиницы казались чем-то избыточным. Я и сейчас предпочитаю домашний уют квартир с Airbnb. Но как же приятно сразу после поезда (даже дорогу переходить не надо) или после насыщенного морозного дня зайти в идеальный отельный номер, повалиться на возмутительно мягкую кровать, долго и с удовольствием стоять под струями воды, смывая с себя усталость, устраиваться с ноутбуком поудобнее, а ещё лучше сразу завалиться спать! И радоваться, что спишь не в иглу :)
ПитерИнн в самом центре Петрозаводска, прямо у вокзала, не пропустите!
Горнолыжный курорт «Ялгора»
Обожаю горнолыжные курорты, хотя вообще не катаюсь на горных лыжах и сноубордах. Но вот эта атмосфера ликования от того, что природа в некоторых местах дарит столько радости, адреналина, скорости и красоты, она мне очень знакома. Сидеть с красивым видом и пить какао, встречать своих румяных и довольных друзей, неуклюже идущих в горнолыжных ботинках, восхищаться смелостью детишек — очень я всё это люблю. И очень удивилась, что буквально в 40 минутах езды от Петрозаводска есть такой уютный и живописный горнолыжный курорт «Ялгора».
Мы, хоть и были без лыж, прокатились на подъемнике, прогулялись по пологому склону, изучая слои снега, мхи и ледяные ручейки, заценили панорамное кафе на самом верху, куда тут же захотелось позвать друзей на хюгге-вечеринку, я покаталась на качелях на берегу озера и позагорала.
Горка небольшая, но здесь даже проводятся соревнования, а все карельские родители считают своим долгом поставить детей на лыжи и сноуборды, потренировать, а потом уж в Финляндию ехать кататься всерьёз. Из-за того, что склон в тени, на нем снег держится до начала мая, что звучит страшновато, но, для тех, кто любит покататься, наверно, кайф!
Строительство иглу
То, о чём мы с Ташей много читали в детских книжках про эскимосов, оказалось реальностью. Дом из снега можно построить и довольно быстро.
Под бодрым и улыбчивым руководством Лены Демочкиной (которая будто из рекламы какого-то зимнего снаряжения) мы собирали снег, как следует его топтали, чтобы он чуть согрелся или «чтобы обломать все шесть лучиков у каждой снежинки» 😂 а потом укладывали его блоками по спирали. Делали мы это с помощью современной канадской оснастки, которая позволяет соблюдать правильный радиус и угол наклона блоков.
Всей командой мы были заняты на несколько часов, но это потому, что снег был сложный, старый и рассыпчатый, когда снег свежевыпавший, строительство иглу на 3-4 человек занимает 1-1,5 часа.
Внутри иглу чертовски уютно и реально теплее, чем на улице. Говорят, одной свечки достаточно, чтобы «натопить» там приятное тепло. Эскимосы стелят на пол и на стены шкуры, укрываются шкурами и спят голые. Но я так поняла, что некоторые любители зимних походов предпочитают такие иглу палаткам, потому что в них теплее и никакого конденсата.
Устроить себе такое приключение можно с Иглупарком.
Снегоходное сафари
«Ну садись!» — сказал Денис после короткого инструктажа по технике безопасности, и я аж отпрыгнула. И стала искать, к кому бы присоседиться пассажиром, потому что у меня же печальный байкерский опыт, а он же «утюжок» и 350 килограмм, и может перевернуться, и впилиться в дерево, и мало ли чего ещё… Но таких бояк и без меня оказалось достаточно, пришлось сесть за руль.
О, как же это было правильно! Управлять такой мощной штуковиной — нереальный кайф, ощущение всемогущества, силищи и восторга. Вроде нажимаешь только на курок газа, но на самом деле всё тело включено, корпусом помогаешь на поворотах, руками приходится оочень крепко держать руль, ногами упираться.
Местами удалось прям слиться с этой машиной, вспарывая на 60 км/ч нетронутую снежную гладь озера. Невероятная красотища на полях, озёрах и в лесах, следы животных повсюду, снежные шапки, солнце ласково слепит глаза и искрится на снегу.
Я ехала и в тысячный раз в своей жизни повторяла себе: только опыт имеет значение, пробуй, пожалуйста, всё, что хочется попробовать! Там, за страхом, новая ты, сильнее и счастливее.
Снегоходные туры, а также катамараны, джипы, рафты, велосипеды, трекинги, рыбалки и всё остальное можно заказать тут.
Поместье Деда Халла
Мне как маленькой помощнице Санты было любопытно узнать, что в Карелии есть свои легендарные Деды Морозы, с поместьями и вотчинами, к которым со всего севера едут дети и взрослые. И нам посчастливилось с одним из таких Дедов познакомиться!
Дед Халла встретил нас на улице, с румяными от мороза щеками, завел погреться в чум, понарассказывал баек, устроил нам соревнования на финских санях и лыжах, в которых надо ходить впятером, а потом пригласил в своё поместье, огромный светлый деревянный дом с гостевыми комнатами на втором этаже и самым большим в Карелии камином, прям в центре зала.
Меня этот камин так заворожил, что я даже не стала отправлять открытку с дедморозовой почты, сидела, грелась и смотрела, как горят огромные бревна.
Ну и как не сфотографироваться с Дедушкой! Если вы тоже хотите в гости к Деду Халла, вам сюда.
Кайт-марафон «Транс-Онего»
Нам повезло попасть на открытие кайт-марафона «Транс-Онего», а потом и на старт самого марафона на набережной Петрозаводска.
Мы поговорили с председателем федерации парусного спорта Карелии Сергеем Аверичевым, он нам рассказал, как всё устроено: 68 участников, 34 команды, каждый на лыжах, с кайтом и санями, в которых необходимое снаряжение на три дня с двумя ночёвками на льду.
Все, конечно, хотят дойти первыми, но и просто дойти — радость и достижение для участников. Я как-то очень болела за них душой, ведь если ветра нет, то они бредут на лыжах, а ещё я знаю, что такое эти ночевки в палатках на льду… Даже нашла группу ВКонтакте, чтобы быть в курсе.
Предостережение: говорят, кто один раз пробует, сразу влюбляется и пропадает в этом зимнем кайтинге. Так что будьте бдительны!
Воздушная подушка
Поездка на остров Кижи была самой долгожданной частью путешествия, потому что я никак не могла представить себе Кижи, место знакомое мне с 10 класса, зимой. Как мы туда попадём? Как там всё выглядит под снегом? Как мы выдержим экскурсию на морозе?
Оказалось, что зимой на Кижи ходит катер на воздушной подушке, причём по времени он почти не уступает ракетам, которые ходят летом, а веселья намного больше. Подушку смешно заносит на поворотах, солнце отражается ото льда со всех сторон, по берегам Онеги причудливые ледяные скульптуры, созданные ветрами, красивейшие леса.
Кижи
В школе это было трудно оценить, а сейчас меня больше всего потряс, конечно, мир реставрации Преображенской церкви, с которым нас подробно познакомил Дмитрий Дюгай. Весь погост и окружающая его территория находятся под охраной ЮНЕСКО, а это значит, что внимание к реставрации там особое.
В 80-е годы был установлен внутренний металлический каркас, чтобы предотвратить возможное обрушение церкви, и сейчас вся конструкция держится за счёт этого каркаса, а нижние брёвна, которые, конечно, подустали 300 лет держать на себе 600-тонный вес всей церкви и её 22 главок.
Нас пустили в реставрационные мастерские, и стало понятно, как там всё серьёзно. Кажется, ну чего особенного, взять да и заменить на новые бревна?! Но нет. Всё, что можно сохранить, должно быть сохранено, поэтому брёвна остаются те же, и им местами делают заплатки из новой древесины. Любовная кропотливая работа по её поиску, сушке и обработке меня просто потрясла.
А ещё нам из мастерской разрешили взять в качестве сувенира по кусочку старого лемеха — той самой деревянной «черепицы», которой покрыты главки. В отличие от основных брёвен, лемех — расходный материал, который меняют раз в 40-70 лет. Мне достались красивейшие трухлявые лемешинки с мхом, сохранили святость и безмятежность того вида, который им открывался все эти годы.
Вся информация о музее-заповеднике «Кижи».
Калитки
А в конце поездки у нас был полноценный мастер-класс по приготовлению калиток, вкуснейших карельских пирожков. Мне и в голову не приходило, что их можно сделать самостоятельно, но под чутким руководством и по старинным рецептам ресторана «Петровский», каждый слепил штук по 7-10 очаровательных калиток, которые мы потом дружно съели.
Кому рецепт? У меня теперь есть.
Представляете, как много разнообразия, красоты и впечатлений можно успеть за три дня?! Конечно, составить такую насыщенную впечатлениями программу можно, только хорошо зная Карелию, нам очень повезло с организатором поездки — информационно-туристическим центром республики Карелия и лично Еленой Вячеславовной Кузнецовой, которая не только была с нами, щедро делилась всей возможной информацией, но и брала для нас запасные тёплые ботинки, носки и кофты. Вот, что значит тёплый приём!
Ну и ещё, в нашей пресс-команде была съемочная группа «Непутевых заметок», и сегодня вышла программа, с красивейшими съемками! Ребята много снимали на квадрокоптеры, там потрясающие виды! И немного меня на снегоходе, в воздушной подушке и на смешных лыжах, кадры из серии «вон, вон, вторая слева в первом ряду!», но всё равно очень радостно! В детстве я очень любила «Непутевые заметки», всегда улыбалась его словам: «Пока-пока, ваш Д.К, Д.К.»
Посмотрите на Кижи, на кайты, на бескрайние снежные просторы:
Конечно, зима ещё нескоро, а Карелия близко, поэтому желаю вам напланировать туда и зимних, и летних поездок по поводу и без — в Рускеалу, к водопадам, на Соловки и в уютные коттеджики на берегах озёр.
При всей моей любви к Финляндии я поняла, что исследовать такую близкую и такую неизвестную Карелию хочется ещё и ещё. К тому же никакого дополнительного стресса, связанного с визами, гринкартами, английским и финским языком и, конечно, с ценами в евро.
Любите Карелию? Помашите, если тоже путешествовали по Карелии и поражались тому, что совсем рядом с Питером (да и с Москвой) такой волшебный северный край, полный легенд и лесов с брусникой!
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